Trolling with a Portable Downrigger
My blog readers know that I spend a LOT of time trolling in the winter, spring, summer, and fall. This technique can be a bit boring. However, it is a highly-efficient way to target salmonids (click here and here for examples) and non-salmonids (click here and here for examples). The reason is that it allows anglers to probe large areas of their habitat using multiple lures.The goal of this blog is to discuss the technique of trolling with a portable downrigger.
The basics of trolling with a portable downrigger are the same, regardless of which type is used. At its core, this device consists of an angler-controlled manual spool containing a thin, stainless-steel cable to which is clipped a downrigger weight holding the fishing line and lures that are lowered into the water column to a specific depth.
I troll extensively using both my motorboat and canoe. However, a downrigger is not meant to be used in a canoe because the angler needs both arms to paddle. That leaves no extra arms available to work the downrigger without slowing down the canoe and causing the lures to sink to the bottom where they can get stuck. Hence, this method should only be used on a motorboat.
Limitations of Trolling with a Portable Downrigger
Keep in mind that a portable downrigger has limitations.
With exceptions, I typically do all my trolling on Maine ponds and lakes in the top 40 ft of the water column. Manually cranking a weight up or down 100+ ft. would be inefficient and a royal pain!
Also, a small portable downrigger only works with a relatively light weight (mine is a 4 pounder). At normal trolling speed (about 1.5 miles per hour), the water resistance against both the weight and the stainless-steel cable dangling into the water column causes a noticeable angle in the cable. As a result, the depth counter may indicate “80 ft.”. But the downrigger weight may only be 70 ft. deep because of this slant.
Finally, a portable downrigger is attached to the side of a boat by a single pressure screw instead of a permanently-bolted system. There is a limit to just how much such a simple system can withstand a downward-pulling weight and sideways-pushing pressure.
Hence, the descriptions provided in this blog reflect my own fishing preferences and may not work if one plans to systematically troll much deeper than 40 ft.
Major Components of a Portable Downrigger System
The major components of a portable downrigger system are presented below:
The Portable Downrigger
I use a Cannon Mini-Troll Manual Downrigger spooled with 100 ft. of stainless-steel cable when trolling with a portable downrigger. This model is designed specifically for smaller boats; mine is a 14-ft. aluminum craft. Not only does this downrigger provide great value, but it is compact, sturdy, well-build, and versatile.
The main reasons this piece of equipment works for me are as follows.
- The mounting bracket makes it easy and quick to install and uninstall the device anywhere on the side of a boat, i.e., it does not require a permanent mount (note: I place two half-inch wide pieces of wood on the inside and outside of the boat to protect the boat walls from scratches and scrapes).
- The numerical wheel counter placed at the end of the boom makes it easy to keep track of the depth of the downrigger weight.
- One full turn of the crank handle equals a 1-foot gain or drop by the downrigger weight.
- You can tighten/untighten the large plastic wing nut on top of the cable spool with the same hand doing the winching, which is convenient.
The Downrigger Weight
The downrigger weight represents the business end of this system. It places the fishing line with the lures at the right depth, and keeps them there. This weight connects to two separate items: the steel cable that attaches to the spool on top of the downrigger and the quick-release clip that holds the fishing line pulling the lures.
Downrigger weights come in all different shapes, sizes, and masses. As explained earlier, I typically troll in the top 40 or so feet of the water column and use a 4-pound weight for this purpose.
You may need to use a heavier weight if you plan on trolling deeper, such as for lake trout or landlocked salmon well below the thermocline in the summer.
The Line Terminator Clip
The line terminator clip connects the stainless-steel cable to a small metal ring at the top of the downrigger weight.
The cable will come with a clip when purchased new. However, keeping a spare on hand is a good idea in case the weight gets stuck on the bottom and you need to cut the cable.
Quick-Release Clip
The quick-release clip attaches to a small metal ring at the tail end of the downrigger weight and pinches the fishing line that pulls the lures. Hence, it connects the rod in the boat to the lures below.
Quick-release clips come in different shapes and styles. However, they are all designed to do the same thing. That is to release the fishing line when a (big) fish gets hooked and pulls the line out of the clip or when the angler grabs the rod and flings it backwards to unclip the fishing line.
My quick-release clip model has three settings: light, medium, and hard. I use the medium setting. The reason is that “light” does not hold onto the line very well and will accidentally unclip the line during the setup or while trolling. On the other hand, “hard” holds on to the fishing line too strongly and makes it difficult to unclip.
The Rod Holder
You can install a simple removable rod holder next to the downrigger to hold the rod once you have deployed the lures
I do not bother with a rod holder anymore. Instead, I lean the rod against the side of the boat and jam the butt against the center bench. That makes the rod immediately accessible because I do not have to stand up to handle it.
But I realize that this approach may not work for everyone or at all times. I do have two removable rod holders in my downrigger bag just in case…
Steps to Deploy Lures When Trolling with a Portable Downrigger
Congratulations! You purchased a new portable downrigger and its accessories. You affixed the device to your boat and are excited to start catching fish with it!
Follow the steps outlined below to properly deploy your lures when trolling with a portable downrigger.
- Release enough of the steel cable to bring the downrigger weight inside the boat. It is much easier – and safer – to attach the fishing line to the quick-release clip when the weight is not rocking back and forth on the boom outside of the boat.
- Fully open the quick-release clip attached to the downrigger weight.
- Take the spinning rod and cast out your lure(s) 30-40 ft. behind the boat.
- Close the bail of the spinning reel and fully untighten the spool-release knob on the reel.
- Grab the fishing line by the tip of the rod, and place your rod down.
- Take the fishing line between your fingers and make a small loop in the line. Then, place this loop in the quick-release clip and close the clip. Note that each type of clip holds to the line somewhat differently, depending on make and model.
- Place the weight with the clipped line on the outside of the boat, letting it hang from the downrigger arm. Have no more than 1 ft. of cable between the boom and the weight (i.e., the downrigger weight hangs above the water).
- Slowly untighten the wingnut at the top of the cable spool. Turn the manual spool counterclockwise to lower the weight in the water column. Count the number of turns (1 turn = 1 ft.) or track the depth counter until the weight reaches its target depth. Line from the spinning reel will freely come off as the weight descends.
- Tighten the wing nut on top of the downrigger to prevent the cable spool from turning any further.
- Tighten the spool-release knob on your spinning reel (do not over tighten it).
- Gently reel in the extra monofilament line until you remove all the slack between the rod tip and the quick-release clip and bend the rod. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the rod to avoid accidentally unclipping the fishing line. Otherwise you must start the whole process all over again…
- Place the rod in its holder and keep an eye on the rod tip. Most fish that bite the lure will not automatically unclip the fishing line. Instead, they will struggle, causing the rod tip to shake. Only bigger fish (4+ pounds) are large enough to consistently release the fishing line from the quick-release clip by themselves.
- Immediately grab the rod when the tip shakes, swing it hard to release the fishing line from the clip, and fight the fish directly. Depending on the size of the fish at the other end, you may want to idle the engine to slow down the boat.
Safety First!
I consciously kneel down on the floor of my boat when futzing with any part of the downrigger. Standing up in a small boat while waves or wind toss it around is dangerous. It invites a fall inside or outside of it
The latter is a recipe for disaster, particularly when the surface water temperature is freezing cold…
Use a Depth Finder when Trolling with a Portable Downrigger
I will end this blog by mentioning a key point. ALWAYS use a depth finder when trolling with a portable downrigger.
You want to keep at least 5 ft. between the weight and the bottom. That prevents the lures from getting stuck or grabbing vegetation.
The worse that can happen (and I speak from personal experience…) is for the downrigger weight to wedge itself among large boulders on the bottom. The stainless-steel cable is strong and will not readily break. Momentum, plus wind pushing your boat along, might eventually snap the cable. However, that may not happen before it pulls the side of your boat dangerously down or rips the whole downrigger into the water…
I have learned my lesson the hard way and carry a wire cutter to cut the cable, if needed.
Was the information in this blog useful? I invite you to share your thoughts and opinions.
Tight lines, y’all.
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